Pattern Development

Pattern Development Process (Industrial)

CONSULTING – Consultations and training are available by the hour and service/training includes referrals specific to your needs, Q&A inquiries which can be accomplished by email, phone, Google Meet/Zoom virtual meetings, and/or text.

PATTERN MAKING – Pattern making is the beginning of the garment development process. A pattern can be developed from sketches, garments, measurements and/or sloper patterns in a base size (one-size). Once the base size pattern is created it can then be sewn and checked for fit & aesthetics. Technical Specs are available and recommended to include with each pattern for development & production phases and can be requested as a whole packet or per page as needed. Typical Spec pages for the Pattern Making stages consist of the Header-Sketch, BOM, Cutters Must/Mini Pattern, Prototype POM, Cut/Sew Details. For more detailed information on Technical Specs see “Technical Packets” section below.

PATTERN DIGITIZING – Do you have paper patterns that you would like in a digital format? Digital patterns can be used to create new designs, import/export files types, grade additional sizes, which can all speed up your pattern development process. Paper pattern piece’s dimensions are placed on a special digitizing board where our curser picks points along your paper pattern and imports those points into our CAD program rebuilding each pattern piece. Once saved pattern can then be used as a new pattern, used to tweak/create other designs, or exported out to work on in other digital programs. 

SEWING – Upon completion of first pattern it is highly recommended to sew your base size pattern to check fit & aesthetics. Typically garment/s are sewn in same or similar fabric type, weight, etc, to replica production fabric. Once first pattern is approved for fit on a body or in a 3D virtual arena, it is recommended to sew up your graded sizes to check the size run before proceeding to large-scale production.

FITTING & PATTERN REVISIONS – Once your prototype/first pattern is sewn up and before putting garment on a body it is highly suggested to measure your sewn garment against the Prototype POM spec page and make sure all areas of the garment are within tolerance of each POM line description. Once garment is on the body (or 3D arena) you will want to see how it looks and fits on your base size model . Of an area of the garment is not fitting just right, an update can be applied to pattern and garment resewn to check that area of discrepancy. These changes/updates help improve fit and/or change style lines to meet your specified design ascetics. This is called a pattern revision stage and an updated Prototype POM spec page is provided with updated measurements for review of measurements.

PATTERN GRADING – Once your fitting process is completed and your prototype/first pattern is “Fit Approved” (it meets your desired aesthetics & fit). We are then ready to move onto pattern grading. Using your existent prototype base size pattern, APM will grade your pattern up & down sizes using your grade table/rules, measurements from your provided size chart, or APM’s preferred grading tables. A list of sizes, whether numerical, alpha, or alphanumerical will need to be emailed to APM along with a size chart that represents your sizes range to proceed with grading. A “Graded POM” spec and/or “POM Size Run” with different sizes of the increase/decrease sizes is created and provided for production ready products.

ILLUSTRATOR/PDF SEWING PATTERNS LAYOUTS – Single size and graded size patterns can be set up in various page size layouts for use as a Illustrator or PDF file type for printing, exporting/importing and/or emailing.

MARKER – Markers can be made for each fabric type your pattern design comes in. The marker includes all pattern pieces and sizes laid out to obtain minimal waste when cutting your fabric out. Pattern pieces are butted up against each other and/or include buffering in the correct grain direction to be cut on your fabric rolled out flat with several layers of fabric stacked on top of each other. Markers can be created in different widths pending your fabric specs.

TECHNICAL PACKET – Technical packets consist of various specification pages that inform designers, companies, and factories what the pattern pieces are to be cut/sewn in specific fabric/colors, where to place trim/findings, how to sew pattern together, what garments should measure in specific locations of garment, and spec each step of the development/sample/production process to everyone so everyone is on the same page of what the end product should look/finish like. Each page list different information from the development process up to production stage. Tech Packets/Specs pages are limited to BOM (client will need to fill out) Cutters Must/Mini Pattern/ Prototype POM or Production Size-Run POMs, Cut&Sew Details. For additional pages be sure to speak with APM for more details.