Patternmaking Mentoring for DIY Facebook Group Challenge’s
- #1 Transfer Darted Slopers to Non-Darted Slopers; Author: Traci Anderson
- #2 Jersey Block *Steps #1 -4; Author: Kellie Elizabeth-Hanks Davis
- #3 DIY Own Pattern Design; Author: Traci Anderson
- #4 Panty Block Draft; Author: Kellie Elizabeth-Hanks Davis
- Purchase APM’s mini basic waist dart bodices & sleeve slopers or use your own. *I like to have my students work on quarter scale slopers so they do not have to use so much paper and time to practice the techniques. Then once they understand technique they can apply it to a full scale sloper or pattern. Mini Slopers for Purchase
- Once you follow steps to practice challenge, take a picture of your front & back sloper when done and share with group in the DIY Challege Allum for group to share feedback or ask group more questions.
- Start challenge #1…
- Start by purchasing your downloadable mini slopers from attached link above or use your own.
- First step is to trace front & back bodice slopers onto paper. No need to use sleeve sloper on this challenge.
- This is very basic and simple process where you will ignore the waist dart on the front & back bodice by drawing a line from the underarm point straight down (parallel to CF “center front” or CB “center back”). Then draw a right angle from CF waist and CB waist point through side seam you just drew down from underarm. You will now have a front bodice that has no waist dart (basically your just ignoring the dart in a sense).
- The back bodice waist dart you will do the same process as the front. If you want to remove the shoulder dart on the back bodice, draw a line at about your mid armhole to your CB perpendicular to your CB (this will be your HBL or horizontal balance line). Then draw a line extending you shoulder dart leg down to this new HBL line.
- Next cut along the dart leg line just drawn down to HBL. Then cut along the HBL line from your mid armhole to the dart leg line extended, making sure to leave a hinge where the two cut lines merge. Then rotate the triangle piece between cut lines towards your shoulder to close off shoulder dart. Move just enough that you close the dart leg opening only. You will now have a dart opening at your mid armhole. Next you will want to tape the rotated piece in place so shoulder dart reminds closed. Add a blank piece of paper behind your armhole where the dart opening has moved to so you can close that space. *We now will ignore that open dart space on armhole. By blending your armhole lines together to join the curved line above and below opening.
- You should now have a basic front & back sloper with no darts.
ANSWER TO CHALLANGE #1 BELOW:
This challenge will be drafting your own tshirt block which will be done in steps. Lets start out by gather some of your own measurements. You will need to have someone help you with this part.
Step #1: Body Measurements *You’ll need the following measurements:
- Neck circumference
- Back width
- Base of neck to waist
- Base of neck to arm pit (measured straight down to determine arm hole depth)
- Hip, measured at the fullest part around bum
Step #2: Body Draft
- Draw a line straight down using neck to waist measurement. Square it across. We will call the starting point 0. This is the base of neck point.
- On the same line, mark from 0 to the top your armhole depth. Square across. This measurement is taken from base of neck to 1cm below arm pit straight down, not at an angle. You will need someone to help you measure.
- Start at 0 and mark 1/2 the length of the armhole depth, then square across.
- To get the shoulder angle, take 1/4 of the measurement you just took (or 1/8 armhole depth). Mark straight down from 0, then square across.
- start at 0 and mark across perpendicular to 0 1/5 your neck measurement.
- From this point, draw a line straight up 1cm. Draw a curve from this point to 0. This will be the neck opening of your shirt back.
- On the squared across line you made in step 1, mark over 1/2 back width plus 0.5cm. Draw a line straight up to the squared across line made in steps 3 and 4.
- Place a point on line 3 for later use.
- Place a point on line 4, then place another point 1/2 cm over. Label this point 10.
- Draw a line from point 10 to point 6. This will be your shoulder seam.
Step #3: Armsyce Draft
- Start at 0 and mark down 1/5 the neck size minus 1.5 cm; draw in neck curve. The front and the back of the jersey block are the same except for the neck curve.
- From 3, draw a straight line perpendicular across measuring 1/4 of the bust plus 2cm. Square down.
- From 0, draw a line straight down to 1 using the neck to waist measurement, then square across to 13.
- From 1, measure down using waist to hip measurement, or start at 0 and use a desired finished length. Square across to 15. Join 13 to 15.
- Draw the arm hole curve starting at 10 and joining 8 and 12. You have completed the body of your tshirt block.
Step #4: Sleeve Draft
- Square down from 15.
- 15-16 half the measurement of 0-2 plus 1cm; square across
- 15-17 jersey sleeve length plus 2cm; square across
- 15-18 the measurement of the diagonal line from 10-12 on body section of challenge part 2 plus 2cm; square down to 19.
- 18-20 1/3 the measurement of 18-15.
- Draw in sleeve cap
- 18-20 curve down 0.6cm
- 20-15 curve up 1.75cm
- 19-21, 1/3 of the measurement of 17-19; join 18-21
- 15-22 sleeve length required; square across to 23
- 23-24 2.5cm; join 18-24
- Learn how to take a sloper pattern and add your own stylelines to it and create your own new pattern design.
- Start off by using a your own Aline pattern/sloper or purchase APM’s Aline Dress Pattern Sloper to start from. Downloadable pattern comes in children’s sizes 2T-14/16. *APM’s pattern for this challenge is a full size pattern (will fit childs measurements as listed).
- Purchase APM pattern at following link…. DIY Aline Custom Dress Pattern
- Print PDF pattern file, tape pages together, cut out paper patterns to size. Then sit back and folllow video tutorial to apply the same steps to make your custom designed pattern. Watch tutorial here…. DIY Aline Custom Dress Video Tutorial
- Once you have finished feel free to share your pattern design in the DIY Mentoring for Patternmaking FB Group in the album’s section.
- Have fun, happy patterning, & enjoy the video! 🙂
Pattern drafting is a process, and these example of techniques can be applied. Although example steps do not guarantee they will fix or adjust your pattern so that it fits correctly for you. The best way to test your pattern is to sew up test garment in fabric (weight/stretches) similar to your final fabric to check pattern and then make updates to your pattern pieces so that if fits your body correctly. Just remember pattern drafting takes time to improve. Its like riding a bike, the more you do/practice the better you get! Happy patterning all!
For more info or visual step-by-step examples check out APM’s online course below for removing shoulder dart (mini slopers included in course). And learn additional dart transferring techniques using the slash/spread & pivot transfer methods. Plus be sure to check out the free video on how to make sure your lining up your seams properly after altering pattern peices too! Have fun and happy patterning! 🙂