Pattern Development Process

Pattern Development Process

CONSULTING – Consultations and training are available by the hour. This service/training includes referrals specific to your needs, Q&A inquiries, and can be accomplished by email, phone, skype/zoom virtual meeting, and/or text.

PATTERN MAKING – Pattern making is the beginning of the garment development process. A pattern can be developed from sketches, garments, measurements and/or sloper patterns in a base size (one-size). Once the base size pattern is made it can then be sewn and checked for fit & aesthetics. Technical Specs are also available and recommended to create with each pattern for development & production details to follow. Technical Specs can be requested as a whole packet or per page as needed. Typical Spec pages for the Pattern Making stage would consist of the following; Header-Sketch, Cutters Must, Prototype POM. For more detailed information on Technical Specs see “Technical Packets” section below.

PATTERN DIGITIZING – Do you have paper patterns that you would like in a digital format? Digital patterns can be used to create new designs, import/export files types, grade additional sizes, which can all speed up your pattern development process. Paper pattern piece’s dimensions are placed on a special digitizing board where our curser picks points along your paper pattern and imports those points into our CAD program rebuilding each pattern piece. Once saved pattern can then be used as a new pattern, used to tweak/create other designs, or exported out to work on in other digital programs. 

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SEWING – Upon completion of first pattern it is highly recommended to sew your base size pattern to check fit & aesthetics. Typically garment is sewn in same or similar fabric type, weight, etc to replica production fabric. Once first pattern is approved for fit, it is recommended to sew up your graded sizes to check also before proceeding to large-scale production runs.

FITTING & PATTERN REVISIONS – After sewing up your prototype/first pattern you will want to see how it looks and fits on your base size model . Any updates and adjustments will be made to garment then transferred back to your pattern pieces. These changes or updates help improve fit or change style lines to meet your specified design ascetics. This is called a pattern revision stage. Updated Prototype POM spec page is provided with updated measurements if purchased with first pattern.

PATTERN GRADING – Once first pattern is considered “Fit Approved” after sewn up and meets clients desired aesthetics & fit. We are then ready to move to pattern grading. Using your existent prototype base size pattern, APM will grade your pattern up & down sizes. We can use your grade table/rules, grade from your provided size chart, or use APM’s own grade tables. A list of sizes, whether numerical, alpha, or alphanumerical will need to be sent to APM along with a size chart that represents your sizes range to proceed with grading. A “Graded POM” spec and/or “POM Size Run” with different sizes of the increase/decrease sizes can be created if clients desires. These specs do not come with graded patterns and need to be purchased along with patterns at an additional cost or can be included in your project estimate.

ILLUSTRATOR/PDF SEWING PATTERN LAYOUTS – Single size and graded size patterns can be set up in various page size layouts for use as a PDF file type. So you customers can download and print pages and assemble page layouts for cutting and sewing of your designs.  For PDF design layout feedback, click link APM -Client Sewing Pattern Ai-PDF Layout Forms to print forms, fill out, and submit with service order.

MARKER – Markers can be made for each fabric type your pattern design comes in. The marker will include all pattern pieces and sizes laid out to obtain minimal waste when cutting your fabric out. Pattern pieces are butted up against each other in the correct grain direction to be cut with fabric rolled out flat and several layers of fabric stacked on top of each other. Markers can be created in different widths pending your fabric specs.

TECHNICAL PACKET – Technical packets consist of various specification pages that inform designers, companies, and factories what the pattern pieces are to be cut/sewn in specific fabric/colors, where to place trim/findings, how to sew pattern together, what garments should measure in specific locations of garment, and spec each step of the development/sample/production process to everyone is on the same page of what the end product should look/finish like. Each page list different information from the development process up to production stage. Tech Packets/Specs can be purchased with project or independently as needed.